Reference Reviews

Lawrence Looks at Books

The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History: 1900 to the Present, edited by Amy T. Peterson and Ann T. Kellogg.   2 vols. 820p.  Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2008. 978-0-313-35855-5; 2008-24642.  $199.95.

Strictly speaking, this guide to twentieth-century American fashion moves well beyond the designs of clothing, hairstyles and cosmetics. Each volume covers a half century and begins with a substantial overview of the changes in American life. These include major political events, economic trends, developments in arts, changes in family structures and daily life. Thus, the discussion traces the impact of automobile, the Great Depression, World War Two, and suburbanization, as well as the influence of motion pictures, the changing roles of women, and the emergence of youth culture. In each case, the authors explore the significance of dress in defining new movements, ideas, and attitudes. Sections focusing on clothing examine both styles and the business of fashion. Coverage includes technological advances in textiles and mass production, as well as changes in fashion centers, marketing and retail. Men’s, women’s and children’s clothing are separately treated in a chronological fashion. For each decade, changes in formal, business and casual wear are traced. Trends in hats, leg wear, undergarments, sleepwear and sportswear are examined. Changing tastes in coats, accessories, footwear, hair treatments and the use of cosmetics are also outlined. The use of suits, separates, ensembles and decorative details on clothing are explained. Numerous color and black and white photographs illustrate the text. Each volume includes a brief glossary of terms specific to the time period covered. The list of resources highlight related print and online publications, period films, websites, museums and organizations. The cumulative index, which appears in both volumes, tends to use very broad terms to describe groups of clothing items. So, someone looking for discussions of blue jeans, bras or bikinis will need to browse the pages noted under "pants - casual", "undergarments (women)" and "swimwear (women)". Nonetheless, this guide to American clothing will provide audiences in high school, public and academic libraries with a unique perspective on American social history.